Halloween Memories

I was going to write this post all about how frustrating it is to try to be expected to create Halloween in a country that doesn't have it (What do children do on Halloween? Beg strangers for candy. Halloween requires the involvement of children andcandy-giving strangers.) However, when the Smith Alumnae Association posted on Facebook, asking about our most vivid Halloween memories, I thought I would do something more positive and positively nostalgic.

So, Smith Alumnae Association, my most vivid memories of Halloween as a child were our homemade costumes. There were a lot of things in my childhood that my mom took very seriously. Science fair projects might take months of preparation. Easter egg hunts involved careful tallying to ensure that no egg was left behind. But the Halloween costumes were always my favorite. My mother seemed to have endless creativity when it came to Halloween costumes when I was a child. Her sisters took Halloween just as seriously and also created Halloween masterpieces that became a collection shared among all the kids. In our family, it was practically considered child abuse to take your child to a Halloween parade in something store-bought. Sure, we were butterflies, vampires, witches, and puppies like everyone else. But we were also lobsters and race cars (not race car drivers!). I'm still impressed with how the women in my family could make a costume out of nothing. My mom would take basic costumes and make them something new with a few simple changes. Or she could make something out of whatever she found around the house. Which leads me to a memory I have of the All-Time-Greatest-Halloween.

I will preface this story with the note that I may be combining different years into one Halloween, but that's what the memory does.

As a preschool teacher, I have come to understand that when you have multiple children under the age of six, their limited range of motion might be to your advantage. So, I have infinite respect for my mother and her ability to create three imaginative, immobilizing costumes for my sisters and me. Jess, the oldest, was, if I recall properly, a vacuum cleaner. She was all in grey with a big white bucket (with the bottom cut out) around her torso with hose coming from it. I, lest I be something so simple as a clown, was a jack-in-the-box. A clown costume, plus a box around my body held up with straps over my shoulders. While Cassady, the baby, was a flower because at her age she didn't need full-body immobilization, the head was enough. I remember seeing a picture of this Halloween later on and commenting about how ingenious it was to restrict us so we couldn't run away. My mother said this was not in any way her intention. Whether it was or it wasn't, I'm still impressed.

Chapter Twenty-Eight: Fall On the Sincheon

This weekend I spent a lot of time wandering around by the Sincheon River. It seemed like the rest of Daegu did as well. There were families playing, people biking, couples sharing headphones, old men lying in the grass, children playing basketball. Everyone was in full fall reverie.
This is the direction of Apsan, which you can see in the distance. I generally walk the other way.

Under the big bridge near my apartment.

Still nearby. That sign up ahead says something about otters. I was on otter patrol all weekend; I have yet to see one.

The birds love man-made waterfalls.

Just stuff growing in the water.

View from under a weeping willow.

Foliage on the trees lining the road. I also love the lamp post.

I love the colors this bush is changing, as well as it's beautiful red berries. It looks like the transformation of fall into winter.

Neverthless, there are flowers everywhere! I cannot believe how many flowers there are! It's mid-November and they continue to bloom.

The river had a lot of man-made features, like fountains that change and make pretty shapes.

Fountain on the left with Apsan in the background.

I call this section "the birds of Daegu."

The huge flock of pigeons was not deterred by bikers or pedestrians. They remind me of New York pigeons and made me a little homesick.

More fountains.

I love when ivy changes colors, so beautiful!

This train bridge had some really beautiful designs on it.

Yellow flowers in November are one thing, but look at the purple! I still can't believe it. I've got many more pictures of the neighborhood that I should post later.

Chapter Seventeen: On Any Given Weekend

This post will be brief. I just want to give you a better idea of what my life is like when I'm not at school with the kids and not trying to hike up mountains. On Friday nights, we frequently go out to dinner and then a bar or two. Last night, we went to the "Tent Place" for Korean barbecue again. The "Tent Place" is nice because you're outside but kind of inside, sitting at picnic tables. Since fall finally hit, they had standing heaters. I love the restaurant for everything except its squatting toilets. I have managed to never pee on myself--but that doesn't decrease my fear every time.
After the "Tent Place" we went to one of the few Western style bars in Daegu. At this one, you could actually get cocktails! Arthur, above, is drinking some sort of Jack Daniels cocktail.

While I enjoyed a pina colada. I paid about $7 for it but it was worth it. I was excited to have rum for the first time in a while. And it was a pretty surreal experience to be drinking a pina colada in Korea.

More cocktails for the rest of the table (I called it a night after my single pina colada). Last night, we had an embargo on shop-talk. We were not allowed to talk about school, students, teachers, teaching, English, or anything related to work. It was pretty difficult but I managed. I may or may not have written down some conversation starters from the internet to take with me in case it turned out I was a very boring person when not talking about school. I didn't use them, but they ended up being kind of meta--the fact that I had written out conversation starters was fodder for conversation itself.

I had spent all night staring at these coasters because they had little notches in the sides that you could punch out. Eventually, when everyone else was sufficiently distracted by alcohol consumption, I started putting them together. Everyone joined suit and we made some nice "Modern Art" ala The Table from first year.

On to Saturday:
I wake up at 9:15, always, without an alarm clock. This is a little strange since I wake up at any time between 7:23 and 8:23 during the week. Then I turn the alarm off; it was set for 8:30. I'm not even sure I know what my alarm sounds like.
On Saturday, I wake up and smell cigarette smoke in my hair from going out on Friday night. I vow to take a shower soon. I watch one or two episodes of Sex and the City and miss New York. I shower. I watch the same number of episodes of Friends and miss my own. I think about the quirkiness and lack of sentimentality that sometimes defines my friends. I wonder if I'll ever find anyone like that here, but have to remind myself that I don't have too much longer. After the second episode, I go to brush my teeth. Every Saturday morning, without fail, I forget to push down the knob that changes from shower to sink. My hair, which was just starting to dry, is completely soaked again. As is the towel hanging up behind me, so I have nothing to dry it on. And I have to change again.
I sit down on my bed with my computer and check some blogs then watch an episode of one of my favorite TV shows on sidereel. Or, I watch half an episode, then realize I'm hungry. I go into the kitchen to find that there's no way I can make breakfast because the dishes from the whole week have piled up. But before I can do dishes, I have to wash the counter where they will dry. After I have finished washing 2/3rds and run out of room for them to dry, I decide to just have some toast and eat real lunch later. It's around noon anyway. I feel bad for missing breakfast because it is my favorite meal. It seems strange to eat breakfast after noon, so I don't. I let the dishes dry while I eat my toast and finish the episode. It's around 12:30 and I realize that I have to decide what I will do today.
What do I need to do? Grocery shopping and clean. But I always want to go shopping shopping. I want books or just to be in a shopping center. I decide that I will first clean, then go grocery shopping, come home, update my planner, and then if I'm still up for it, I'll go shopping shopping.


Then I realize, I don't feel like cleaning or going grocery shopping. But it's Saturday. So it's okay.

I read some, then finally get out of the house at around 3, deciding I want a rotibun and hot chocolate. So today, I headed downtown in search of a bun place that I could sit and read at. It's finally fall, so it was quite chilly. It was nice to put on a sweater and scarf and still feel a little nip. It is late October, after all. I walked downtown via the subway, as usual, and came out by the police station.
It seems that on Saturdays, there are always people in silly costumes selling you things downtown. The pedestrian streets are also so crowded that you move in a mass, like New York. I didn't get a shot of the pandas, but I liked the marshmallow people.

Near Jungango, there are fewer people. I went into Rotibun and, as usual, felt helpless when the guy working tried to explain why I couldn't have a bun. Apparently I'd have to wait 1 or 2 hours. Disappointed, I walked to a nearby Dunkin' Donuts.
I know it's corporate America and imperialism, but they have red bean filled donuts and darn good hot cocoa (not hot chocolate). It was a nice fall day to sit and read with my hot cocoa. Also, Dunkin' Donuts in Korea is very much like a cafe instead of a donut shop.

Jungango on the weekends is a nice place to just sit and hang out. I saw a few other white girls while I was inside, which is always nice. It makes me feel less alone.


Also in Jungango is our favorite Western-style restaurant: Outback! It's always funny to go there with Nicole as she is actually Australian and it's full of Aussie kitsch. The jokes never get old. Another great quality about Outback is that they have 100 minutes of beer for less than the price of 2 beers. My ability to be "sensible Colleen" always fails at Outback. Also, you can see the second of two McDonaldses in downtown. Unfortunately, they do not have the "southern style chicken sandwich" so they are primarily of no interest to me.

After I got coffee, I wandered around in Jungango where I have been a few times this week. On Sunday, we went to the movies there. Then on Monday, I went back to Kyobo book store and got a totally sweet book for American kindergarteners entitled Yes, You Can Speak Korean. This book has actually helped me more than all of my stuff for adults combined. In half an hour, I already knew the hangul consonants. Right now, I'm just worried about reading (or rather, pronouncing) and not so much talking. But in a matter of days with this book, I have progressed far beyond my previous knowledge (i.e. "beer, please").
Anyway, today I wandered around the Jungango subway shopping center and bought 4 pairs of earings for under $10. On my way back home, I stopped in my favorite classy stationers shop in the Banwoldong subway mall and got this lantern. Holy hot air balloons, Batman! It makes me feel so much more at home. I still need to get a light for it, though.

On the way home, I did, finally, go grocery shopping.

Chapter Fifteen: Climbing Apsan

Yesterday, I went on another one of my solo journeys. It was great and while I still feel sad about being so far from my friends, as well as having such trouble making friends, it was really important to do this for myself. I was able to push myself, keep climbing for myself, and do everything because I wanted to. I didn't feel judged, I didn't feel pressured. I was in my own world. In the past, I'd never wanted to do anything physical because I've always been so out of shape. I always feared people would judge me. Also, it seems like the only chances I've had in the past were with people who were pretty into hiking and climbing. When I'm new at something, I want to explore it on my own. I don't want people always telling me the right ant wrong way. Are the rules really that important? I also had so much time to think about everything on this adventure. What is my personality, now? In this new life I lead? In Korea, after Smith, after The Breakup, as an adult, as a teacher, as cook, as an ex-pat? What am I really doing with my life, what do I want to happen each day, each week, until I leave? What do I want to happen when I get home. I'll save the introspection for later, now for the pictures of Apsan!
This is quite a long post, feel free to just look at the pictures. I may add a video later of me talking about my experience if you're not inclined to read.

Above is the park at the base of Apsan. It was a nice park and got me ready for my climb. I was so anxious that I didn't really notice anything about it.

The most beautiful thing I've seen in Korea so far! This is what I had expected it to look like! This is the entrance to a Buddhist temple (which was active and had people worshiping so I quickly got out of there). I cannot believe the detail.


This is what I thought Korea would be like. I mean, clearly, not everywhere, but I was really happy to finally see it. It looks like the cover of my guide book and I was standing right under it! It's the most amazing ceiling I've ever seen, and it's just the entrance. And seriously, I saw some amazing things in the UK and Greece- but this beats them all.

No need for words.

You can see the people worshiping in there. I wish I could have gone closer, but again, did'nt want to intrude!

All these things were really powerful to see. I feel kind of silly blogging about them when I can't do them justice. But I need to keep a record.

Lit candles, I wonder for what?

I think at this point I had been climbing for about half an hour and I was using my zoom to try to determine how high up the peak was. Answer: Far. Real' far.

Another temple. I walked up a paved path to this point, hence the cars. I'm pretty sure if you don't take the wrong route, you might be able to drive up the mountain? Inside the temple, there are people worshiping. I didn't want to get any closer because I respect them and don't want to disturb. But I wonder what's inside, it must be so pretty!

Just a little closer to take a picture of the cute cartoon monk!

Seeing all the Buddhism made me spend a lot of time thinking about people and spirituality on this hike. I don't think I've been very good at seeing "the light" inside of everyone since I left Smith. While I'm still an atheist, I really wish I could go to Quaker meeting here.

So the path started off paved, then went to cobblestones, then somehow I ended up on a dirt path. At this point in the climb I am starting to worry that I took a wrong turn off of the tourist path because... it's definitely not easy anymore.

About 20 minutes later: What the crap? This is the path that I have to climb? This is definitely not a tourist path anymore. But there is no way I'm turning back to find the easy path. I just keep going. There are no more business men on their cellphones and everyone has real hiking gear. I think I am the only one without a walking stick. They all smile and seem to respect the foreigner for not being stereotypically lazy. Eventually, we are all so exhausted. We share those "boy howdy, I am so tired. What am I doing?" smiles.

A few minutes before I took this, I got the sense that I might actually be getting near the top. I had no clue up 'til now when I started seeing a lot more light coming from up ahead. I can't read Korean so I have no idea what the trail signs were telling me about distance. At this point, I know, it's the top. I am still in disbelief, thinking it must be some big ledge. How long has it been? Probably about an hour and a half, I can't possibly be at the top. But man, if you thought those huge rocks were hard... stairs. They really did me in. Each one was like tearing all the muscles in my body.
You know that Dylan Moran sketch about how he can't handle talking about Germany and all the advances they've made in the past 60 years because he just keeps thinking "Nazis, Nazis, Nazis" and that they look like pork? Yeah. I look like pork. I have probably never been so red in my life. I was exhausted, dripping sweat from even the front of my knees, but I never felt so good in my life. I just walked up high enough for my ears to pop! That's crazy!
Which path to choose? I ended up going one way for a long time, then turning around and coming back. It was a nice hike.

Another peak in the distance, it seemed higher, so I decided I must get over there somehow.

First glimpses of the city. I cried. I could not believe I had made it up there; I had really done what I set out to do. I couldn't believe this beautiful place is so close to home, that I live down there! This is really my life.

I've stopped being so red and I'm feeling really good. After only a few minutes of walking around the top, I felt amazing. I couldn't even imagine what I must have felt like just a few minutes before when I couldn't lift my own legs. I felt like I could keep hiking for hours, and did!

I was over on that ridge not too long ago, looking over at this one!

Everyone's feeling pretty introspective.

Again, so red-faced. Doin' a Korean pose, just like the people standing right next to me.

I sat down to eat my homemade carrot cake peanut butter sandwich (I'm really getting amazing at this stove-top baking thing!). I was in heaven, it totally hit the spot. Then this really sweet old lady, whose family I had ended up walking near pretty much the whole trek, gave me rice cake! I love old Korean ladies. I'm told that they just really, really want us to like Korea which is amazing. Did I mention that I did not see another foreigner at all yesterday? Seriously, my whole trip to Apsan, up Apsan, and back from Apsan- not a one! I guess that made me stand out. Also, I think she was thinking "What the hell is that Westerner eating? That is not hiking food." What's funny is that the two types of food have pretty much the exact same principle: carbohydrates to get you going (carrot cake and rice cake) and protein to keep you going (beans and peanut butter). I was honestly thinking that I should bring some extra to share in case any Korean ladies give me food. Next time, I will for sure. They also tend to give me free stuff when I am shopping with Nicole and Arthur. It's quite a life. Of course, I thank them emphatically.
My new hiking shoes, all nice and dirtied up. This was definitely the best large purchase I've made in a long time. I would have died in my Saucony's. They were also on sale, which made them infinitely better. Instead of 156,000 won, they were only 80,000 won. (If the won weren't doing so poorly right now, that would be roughly $80.)

My buddy here sat with me while I ate my lunch.

The Ice Cream Shop at the Top of the World! (ala Douglas Adams and The Restaurant at the End of the World). One ajima, one pack, a lot of ice cream, and a lot of dry ice becomes an ice cream shop. Not one person walked by her without buying ice cream. It was impossible to refuse. You think, "I just climbed this freakin' mountain, hell yeah I deserve some ice cream." I'm always amazed at ajimas and how they can alway sell things, but climbing a mountain with a pack full of ice cream and dry ice, that's a new level (okay, she probably took the cable car).

I pointed to a melon wrapper, she said "No melon," and handed me vanilla. So I got vanilla while I definitely would have prefered red bean. Then I saw her give melon to a kid, I guess she was saving it for them? Or do Westerners not get melon? I couldn't complain, really, because I was in such amazement that for a mere 1,000 won I could have ice cream up here!


Eating ice cream at the top of the world! I love this photo and I think it's kind of an explanation of who I am these days. I'm on my own, but happy about it. I'm at the top of a mountain that I climbed myself (gag me with the metaphor!), looking exhausted, eating ice cream, with a huge sprawl of civilization not too far behind me. Also, I look silly and happy, which I generally am, honestly.

Hey look, there's something down there. Must go investigate.

I'm pretty sure I was that high up before.

The Restaurant at the Top of the World! Much like the Ice Cream Stand at the Top of the World! I had though about the Douglas Adams correlation with the ice cream stand long before I even saw the restaurant. It seems bizarre and out of place, a definite symbol that I am getting closer to the more developed side of the mountain.

Getting deeper into the developed part of the mountain top.

On this side of the mountain there were a ton of power and phone lines. Probably for the restaurant at the top of the world!

Daegu from the fortress wall thing.

Phone booth at the top of the world! This is right near the cable car, so it's less strange. There's another restaurant nearby.
View from the cable car. I took the car down because I was afraid that I would take a wrong turn on the way down and end up on the wrong side of the mountain in some strange district and not be able to get home.

Korean totem poles! I didn't actually notice these on my way up, I was so tired already.

I know you can barely see it, but there's definitely a Korean fighter plane hanging out in those trees. You could probably go look at it, but I was too tired. Another thing I didn't notice on the way up!